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As hospitality enters 2026, food halls sit at a critical inflection point. Some are thriving, some are rebuilding, and many are still trying to define what a “food hall” actually is.
In the Season 2 premiere of the Behind the Tab podcast, we kick off the year with Will Donaldson, founder of Politan Row and one of the most experienced pure-play food hall operators in the industry.
With more than a decade dedicated exclusively to food halls—and a lifetime spent in restaurants—Will brings a perspective that blends hospitality operations, real estate realities, and human behavior in a way few can.
This episode isn’t about trends for trend’s sake. It’s about what actually works, what doesn’t, and what food hall operators need to focus on right now.
A Hospitality-First Path to Food Halls
Will’s path into food halls didn’t start in real estate—it started in restaurants.
Growing up around restaurant spaces, working front-of-house roles, and managing operations through college gave him a foundational belief that still shapes Politan Row today: food halls are restaurants first, real estate second.
That belief set Politan Row apart early. While many early food hall projects were driven by developers with limited restaurant experience, Will approached the model from the operator’s side—thinking first about guests, vendors, and day-to-day execution.
Since launching Saint Roch Market in New Orleans in 2014, Politan Row has developed and operated food halls across the country, including long-term partnerships with groups like Jamestown. Today, they remain one of the only operators focused exclusively on food halls and bars within food halls.
Why Food Halls Look Different Everywhere
One of the most compelling parts of the conversation is Will’s explanation of why food halls succeed in some regions and struggle in others. Density matters—but so does cultural context. In the UK and parts of Europe, food halls are experiencing a renaissance, driven by:
- Higher urban density
- A long legacy of public markets
- Cultural norms around shared dining spaces
In the U.S., food halls evolved differently. Our reference point isn’t public markets—it’s food courts. Transportation hubs, malls, and convenience-driven dining shaped expectations, which makes food halls harder to execute in lower-density or third-tier markets.
As Will explains, the industry “skinned its knees” trying to make food halls work everywhere. The lesson for 2026? Not every market wants—or can support—the same model.
What Defines a Food Hall (and What Doesn’t)
With more concepts adopting the “food hall” label, Will draws a clear distinction between form and function. For him, the defining promise of a food hall is variety in a shared, physical experience:
- A place groups can gather
- Multiple cuisines under one roof
- A reason to linger, explore, and socialize
That’s why he’s skeptical of models that resemble ghost kitchens more than destinations. Food halls, at their best, are experiential. They’re not just efficient—they’re memorable.
The Biggest Mistake New Food Hall Operators Make
When asked about common mistakes, Will doesn’t hesitate: forgetting to prioritize people.
Food halls are intense environments. Unlike traditional retail, operators are visible to guests and vendors at all times. Cleanliness, lighting, music, furniture, bathrooms—these details aren’t secondary. They’re the product. Operators coming from real estate often underestimate:
- How much time is spent in front of guests
- How much emotional labor the role requires
- How critical collaboration is with vendors
Food halls aren’t strip malls. They’re living systems—and people feel when they’re neglected.
Marketing Isn’t a Buzzword—It’s Accountability
Another major theme in the episode is marketing responsibility, a frequent source of friction between landlords, operators, and vendors. Everyone says “marketing,” but few define it. Politan Row’s approach is refreshingly specific:
- The house is responsible for on-site activation
- Vendors are responsible for telling their own story externally
- Success is measured by whether something is happening in the space
Live music, kids’ programming, DJs, trivia, and community events aren’t add-ons—they’re traffic drivers.
The Food Hall Pet Peeve That Reveals Everything
One of Will’s most telling insights is also the simplest: staff on their phones during slow periods. It’s not about phones—it’s about guest focus. Lulls are when standards show. Messy bathrooms after lunch rushes, unacknowledged guests, disengaged teams—these moments quietly train customers not to return. As Will puts it, guests don’t usually complain. They just go somewhere else.
What Most Food Halls Are Getting Right
Despite the challenges, Will is optimistic. The best food halls are leaning into layered experiences:
- Bars with personality
- Nooks, pockets, and discovery moments
- Retail, arcade games, bottle shops, and events
People don’t come to food halls for cheap food. They come to spend time. Food halls that understand this—those that give guests reasons to stay—are building lasting loyalty.
A 30-Day Challenge for Food Hall Operators
Will closes the episode with a simple but powerful challenge for 2026: Read every single review.
Not just the good ones. Not just the bad ones. All of them. Reviews are unfiltered operational data. Inside even the harshest feedback is a kernel of truth—and operators who listen get better.
Season 2 of the Behind the Tab podcast starts here. Episode 1 with Will Donaldson is now live at https://gotab.com/podcast.
If you care about food halls, shared dining, and building experiences that actually work, this is the conversation to start your year.
Pull up a seat—and press play.
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